Wednesday, 16 October 2013

Applying A Base (Foundation, Concealer, Powder)

Having a good base is key to any make-up look. After a good consolation with your client and  prepping the skin properly  (see 'Consolations & Prepping The Client (Skin Care)')it's time to start make-up application. 


In this session we learnt how to apply a good base using the Dermacolor Foundation Palette. Choose your shade by comparing it to the clients jaw line, it should blend in perfectly. You may need to mix foundations or use a tiny bit of Illamasqua white foundation to lighten. Many people also like to mix a primer in with their foundation instead of applying it underneath, we use the Illamasqua primer, which comes in matte or satin (depending on the look you are going for determines which one you'll use. 

Using a large buffing brush, buff the foundation into the skin, blendng the ears, hair line and as you blend down the jaw and neck, stretch the neck up (gently) to avoid lines. 
(TIP- facial toner removes make-up out of hair easily!)

Now, using a smaller, longer-haired blending brush, focus the foundation up and around the nose. Ask your client to open their mouth slightly so you can focus around the lips and also, by using a puff to support the eye area, use backwards and forwards motions to apply the make-up. Remember to get right to the lash line, underneath and in the inner corner.
(TIP- we use a puff to lean gently on the face to prevent melting the make-up with our fingers and also it's nicer for the model!) 


Today we used the Dermacolor Camouflage Palette. You want to use a concealer 1 or 2 shades lighter than the clients foundation. You can also mix the concealer in with a tiny bit of foundation if you want to. Use a small, long-haired blending brush to conceal blemishes and under the eye. 
(TIP- under the eye you have a soft part of skin and underneath you have a bone, don't apply below that line!)

YSL Touche Eclat light reflecting pen is amazing for under the eye area as it has light reflecting pigments in. However, be careful because it contains metal, and a lot of people have reactions to it. 
(TIP-never apply light reflecting products onto blemishes, it won't hide them it will make them stick out even more!)


Empty some powder onto the back of your hand (we used the Illamasqua Translucent Loose Powder) and using your puff, roll the powder onto the forehead and down the t-zone. Then, using a fluffy brush, lightly apply to the rest of the face and powder over the eye lids. 
(TIP- the more powder you put on the eye lids, the easier it will be to blend your powder eye shadow!)

This is the base I did. My model is Phoebe, her skin type is dry/ sensitive skin and she gets redness in the lower cheek area. 

'never tell a singer you've got a sore throat' 

Neeks x

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